Of all of the places I have been in this world, the Lauterbrunnen Valley of Switzerland is my absolute favorite. I formed that opinion in 1982 when I first visited as a child, and having finally gotten back there in 2001, it is firmly ensconced at the top of my list.
This trip, though, would prove to be a challenge. The weather was bad all but one day. We missed many of our itinerary objectives. Construction and traffic on the autobahns made driving difficult, not to mention that the map I brought with us was old, and showed proposed autobahns which had been cancelled. All of our flights were late for various reasons, more on that in a bit. However, we made the most of it and had a fabulous trip in spite of these issues.
Unexpectedly, Iceland.
The next morning, we were back to the airport, and waiting on a plane, which
was late, to take us to Frankfurt. I'd like to further explore Iceland
sometime in the future.
Switzerland.
This picture was taken in Interlaken, Switzerland. As can be seen, it was
raining. This curtailed our activities for the day.
If you like tall, whispy waterfalls, the Lauterbrunnen Valley is the place
to go. With all the runoff from the mountains, and those striking precipices,
there is almost always a waterfall in sight. And there is an easy hiking
path that runs most of the length of the valley.
Want a restaurant with a view? Ok, ok, so Switzerland has more than it's
share of such establishments. But, try the
Alpenruh.
We ate on the patio under the gaze of the Jungfrau massif. I had one of the
many Rösti dishes they offer. Rösti is a fried potato dish, akin to Hash
Browns. Mine had a thick layer of melted cheese on it, topped by a fried
egg. Wow! I had ordered the barley soup as well, but they forgot about
it, oops. I don't think I could have finished it anyway, the Rösti was
that filling.
Good thing we were doing more hiking afterwards.
This is the final drop to the valley floor, from Gimmelwald heading to the
cable car station in Stechelberg.
The station as seen in OHMSS, where Bunt gets word that Bond has escaped,
hasn't changed much.
The cliff face to the left is over 1000ft
tall. They do allow you to bungee jump from the Mürren service lift here,
for a fee, of course.
We really enjoy this festival. We've been there twice, and found it to be
well off the tourist track, which is a big plus in our book. Didn't hear
any English spoken. Add to that, we seem to like the wines offered here.
While we purchase to take home, it seems that many folks purchase to consume
at the festival, as the merchants kept asking if we wanted our bottles
opened. There were some good cheese booths to go with that.
And then it was time to go home. Not a bad week, all things considered.
Yes, unexpectedly, we spent the night in Iceland. We were flying
Iceland Air,
and all of their flights go through Keflavik. This the view out of our
hotel window, looking into Reykjavik.
Our flight to Europe was supposed to leave at 8:45pm from Baltimore. But, there
was a problem with the airplane, and we wound up leaving just before 3am. A
flap actuator was acting up, and the flight crew was not willing to leave
until it was fixed. I personally think that is a great thing. Other airlines
might have flown with the issue.
I would definitely fly Iceland Air again. I am comforted to know they are
paying close attention to maintenance.
So, we missed the connecting flight to Frankfurt. Iceland Air put us up in a
hotel, fed us, and even gave us a free bus
excursion. Iceland sits on the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, and thus has a lot of
geothermal activity. This picture is of a hot water reservoir on a hill in
Reykjavik. The round cylinders are water tanks, which are filled from a
hot spring. The dome on top is a
restaurant. There is a geyser here that spews regularly. This picture was
taken as we were walking from our hotel into the downtown area.
This is a picture taken in the downtown area, looking towards the bay.
Lots of brightly colored buildings, many of the houses seemed to be
sided with corrugated metal. We did some souvenir shopping here. Things
are expensive. I guess that has to do with their isolated economy, and
the amount of stuff that must be imported.
We made it back to the hotel with enough time to change into swimsuits, and
get on the bus for the excursion to a place they call the
Blue Lagoon.
This is a semi-man-made, sea water hot spring, basically humans tapped into
a hot water vein and harnessed the source. It is located in a lava field,
with a high sulfur and silicate content in the water. It stunk! Literally.
Once you got over the stench of the sulfur, it was quite fascinating. Lots
of steam rising all about. The water looked like skim milk. Very
relaxing, invigorating, and made your skin feel soft. Weird lighting though,
and the disposable camera just couldn't deal with the conditions. We didn't
take the regular camera for fear of damaging it.
We arrived in Frankfurt, rented the car, and started driving south on the
autobahn. Driving in Germany and Switzerland is a lot of fun. Everything
is very well marked, as in this picture, and it is tough to get lost.
We ate at one of the autobahn rest stops south of Karlsrule. The place was
spotless, and the food was fabulous, best roadside meal I've ever had.
Now, if only the weather was spotless.
So, we drove to the town of Thun. One of the regional cities. This picture
was taken from the south bank of the Aare river of the old portion of town.
The covered bridge on the right is a pedestrian way, and has sluice gates
to control the flow of the river. We also managed to find the town market.
After lunch, we went up the Lauterbrunnen Valley to the
Trümmelbach Fälle.
This waterfall drains the runoff from the glacier behind the Jungfrau
mountain, as well as snows from the peaks. It moves a lot of
water through a tight space, up to 20000 liters per second during the spring
melts. It has carved a tunnel deep into the mountainside.
When we reemerged from the chasm, we found that the sun had finally come out.
Here is one of the few sunny pictures from that day. This is the guest
house at the entrance to the falls.
We had returned to the hotel to get ready for dinner.
The picture on the left is of our hotel with the Staubbach Falls in the
background. The falls are 920ft in height.
We stayed at the
Hotel Jungfrau in Lauterbrunnen.
Wonderful place. There was no TV in the room, but we didn't need one.
We had the front center room with a balcony. The pool has a splendid view
up the valley and of the waterfalls. If only the weather was clear, we could
have just sat on the balcony and watched the mountains.
For dinner, we took the rack railroad up to the hillside town of Wengen.
A rack railroad is basically a track with an extra, toothed rail, and a
cog wheel on the train, which mates with the track, that is turned by the motor.
It enables the train to climb rather steep inclines without slipping.
This picture is of
Lauterbrunnen station. This is not the cog rail, that's on the next platform.
But, does this place look familiar? It might to someone who's seen the
James Bond movie "On Her Majesty's Secret Service" (OHMSS). This is the
station where Bond arrives to meet Irma Bunt on his way to Bloefeld's alpine
hideaway.
Anyway, Wengen is
mostly a pedestrian only resort town, 4265ft above sea level, and nearly
1500ft above the valley floor. The picture to the left is looking
from Wengen up the Lauterbrunnen Valley towards Mürren, the next day's
adventure. In the center of the picture, you can see a whisp of a waterfall.
That's the Staubbach Falls near our hotel.
Finally! A clear day. This is the first real view of the mountaintops we
had. We had two options for a clear day, the Jungfraujoch or the Schilthorn.
I had been to the Jungfraujoch the other time I visited, so I wanted to see the
Schilthorn this trip. Also, given that OHMSS is one of my favorite movies,
and that the Jungfrau can get crowded with tourists, we decided on the
Schilthorn.
Getting to the top of the Schilthorn is fun. We took the cable car, which
climbs up to the 9744ft peak in four segments. It starts in Stechelberg
(2844ft) and climbs out of the valley to Gimmelwald (4484ft). Then it goes
to Mürren (5413ft). The picture to the left is the segment up to Birg (8779ft).
Quite a steep change in altitude there.
They have altimeters in the cars so you can watch your rate of assent.
The Birg station looks very much like it did in OHMSS, except the blue
siding is gone.
And finally, up to the Schilthorn.
In OHMSS, this was Bloefeld's mountain
fortress and laboratory, and from Birg up was private. It looks much like
it did in the movie. These days, it is a revolving restaurant, that they've
named Piz Gloria. They try to market the Bond movie location theme. They
even have a well-worn film in the conference room, which shows excerpts from
the movie that highlight the Schilthorn.
This photo was taken from what served as a helipad in the movie. I
understand that the helipad structure was built by the movie company to
house the generators
they needed for lighting, and was not in the original designs for the
restaurant. The helipad area has since been enlarged from the original
square facility into a roundish structure. The restaurant exterior looks
much as it did in the movie, although there are no steps from the
helipad down to the cable car lobby. I also could only find one elevator.
Hiking in the Alps is wonderful. They have these direction signs everywhere
you need one, and none where you don't. It lists the various destinations
and how long it takes to walk there. In the background across the valley
is the Eiger, Monch, and Jungfrau peaks. Also in the background, on the
near side of the valley is the Birg station. We would have hiked down to
Gimmelwald (only 3:15) from here, but we didn't have shoes with ice cleats.
Some of the sections where quite steep and slippery. Instead, we took the
cable car back down to Mürren, and hiked around there.
However, the snow and ice didn't stop us from venturing out a little ways
on the peak. I love this picture, but it doesn't adequately portray the
precariousness of a snowcovered
Alp. I am standing to the side, because to my left was a rather sharp
dropoff. If I slipped or dropped something, it'd be collected back down in
Stechelberg, some 7000ft later.
Here's a picture looking back up at the Piz Gloria, from where I was standing
in the last picture. We did actually go inside the building. We had hot
chocolate, and went around once on the revolving restaurant, to take in
the diners' view of the Alps. I wanted
Gluhwein, but it wasn't available yet. It must be neat to get up there
before sunrise, and have breakfast.
"Take me to the Alpine Room. I want to see the dawn."
-Contessa Teresa Draco, OHMSS
This is the cable car coming up from the Birg station, that building perched
on the promontory in the middle of the picture. There is only one support
tower, and it is just off the left of the picture. The cable is in free
space all the way to Birg.
We took an early trip up. There is a
discount if you leave Stechelberg before 9am. Another bonus is that is
isn't too crowded. We spent two and a half hours up here, and as we were
starting to head down, the cars coming up were packed with folks.
This photo was taken from the Birg station, looking down through the clouds,
towards Mürren.
Click
here for a telephoto closeup of Mürren from this vantage point.
We rode the cable car down to Mürren. This is another mostly vehicle free
alpine town. I say mostly, because as in Wengen, the hotels operate
large golf carts for moving guests and their luggage to the cable car and
rack rail stations.
Mürren has some spectacular views of the Jungfrau.
After lunch, we rode the funicular from Mürren to the top of Allmendhubel, a closeby hill.
This is a picture from Allmendhubel, looking at Wengen, on the ledge on the
other side of the valley. From here, we hiked back down into Mürren, and
on to Gimmelwald. Where we got on the cable car.
"We'll head him off at the precipice."
-Ernst Stavro Blöfeld, OHMSS
If you watch OHMSS before you visit Lauterbrunnen, and again when you get home,
you'll find you recognize things in the movie. This stretch of street
is used in one of the car chases. Bond is making a call from a phone
in the parking lot on the right. Tracy's Cougar is in the street in the
middle, and Bunt's Mercedes drives essentially through the parking lot of
the hotel on the left, shooting at the phone booth. As the scene progresses
towards where this photo was taken, you can briefly see the hotel we stayed
in.
Other sights we've found include the town church, the train station, the
ramp behind the train station, and the intersection near the falls.
The next day, and what a miserable day it was. We took the chance and rode
up to Kleine Scheidegg. I was
hoping that maybe the
Jungfrau
would be above the clouds, but to no avail.
The conductor tried to get us on the train to the top, but I wasn't paying
$50 per person to look at clouds.
There wasn't much else to do in the rain here,
so we bought some postcards.
Then, we went back down to Lauterbrunnen, got in the car, and drove into
Germany.
Finally, Germany.
There were a couple of events we wanted to attend in Germany. Some were walks,
in Jebenhausen and Heidelberg, but the weather precluded any photography. The
other events were wine festivals. This is the
Heilbronn Weindorf festival,
in the rain. In early September, they setup booths in the vincinity of city
hall. Many of the region's wine makers have a booth. Heilbronn is in the
Württemberg wine district of Germany. It is my understanding that most of
the wine made here is consumed here, and not much is exported.
We also attended the wine festival in Oberwesel. Oberwesel is in the
Mittelrhein wine district. This one was very touristy, mobbed,
I heard more English than German here, and there were miles of tour busses.
The wine didn't do anything for me, either. It was ok, but nothing I wanted
to tote home
on the airplane. There's a bit more of an export market here anyway, so
chances are I could obtain some of it back home, if I really wanted to.
What Oberwesel did have to offer that was different, was the
Rhein in Flammen
fireworks display. This was very well choreographed with music. Most of the
fireworks were launched from a barge in the river. It also seemed that every
passenger boat that plies the Rhein was present. Fifty or sixty or so of them
all in this narrow channel. Quite a sight to see. Next time, though, we'll
see it from one of those boats.
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